Overnight Trains in Ukraine

"Overnight trains in Ukraine are not like a typical Eurail sleeper, but they do provide an insight into the strangely caring side of this vast country."

To travel Ukraine, a country most people are surprised to find out is the size of Texas, the only comfortable option without owning a car is on the overnight trains. Overnight trains in Ukraine are not like a Eurail sleeper, but they do give an insight into the strangely caring side of this vast country.  Otherwise seen as cold, stark and scowling to the unknowing outsider, just one ride on the overnight trains in Ukraine will leave a person in awe and respect for the people that reside there.

The reason that overnight trains are the only way to really travel Ukraine is that getting from point A to B takes a very long time!  Sitting in a seat for the following lengths of time can feel uncomfortable, as well as a tired waste of time, so why not take an overnight train for a more comfortable ride while you sleep?

• Kiev - L'viv = ~9 hours
• Kiev - Odessa = ~9 hours
• Kiev - Kharkov = ~8 hours

These times are approximate because the trains vary quite a bit in Ukraine and, as with most things in this country, they move a little on the slow side.

If you're planning on buying the train tickets yourself, don't expect any help from the attendants when you have questions in English. These attendants are not expected to know other languages and, unfortunately, they are quick to let their disinterest show.

Also, don't expect to find out any train information for any trains that pass outside the country. Kiev, for instance, has one direct train that goes to Budapest, and that is the only time the ticket attendants will know anything about. However, there are many other various routes that can be taken to get to Budapest at different times and lengths of travel, but you will have to investigate those routes elsewhere.

Passports are required to book overnight train tickets. Train tickets are usually quite easy to get your hands on except around the holidays. Those tickets will go on sale about 1.5 months in advance and they will generally sell out since everyone and their mother is going away to be with their families. I had loads of trouble trying to go anywhere over the winter break because of my lack of knowledge.

"If you were feeling like the entire Ukrainian world is a cold, old place before, you'll be feeling it two-fold at this time."

The carriage attendants stand outside the entrance to look at your tickets before entering. The attendants are generally females, but can also be male, and they only let people on if they belong in that carriage.

Upon entering the dimly lit, brown wood paneled train, you will feel as though you've been transported back into the 1970s. Even the curtains on the window seem like they haven't changed! If you were feeling like the entire Ukrainian world is a cold, old place before, you'll be feeling it two-fold at this time.

The most common sleeping carriages on the train contain 4 beds (2 on top, 2 on bottom), which is also known as 2nd class, but some can be cheaper in a 6 bed open layout with no door,and others in 1st class can be much nicer. The 4 bed cabins will have one window and a small table to put food and drinks on. There is a nightlight on each bed along with a sleeping mat, pillow, blanket and a packet of fresh sheets. That's right - the sheets are even sealed in a plastic bag that includes a towel, soap and hand wipes! There's a little spot of sunshine in all the drabness. Not bad?

There's usually a toilet at the end of the carriage, but you'll be praying that you won't have to actually use it. Don't even bother getting up at a stop because they're fully locked when the train isn't moving, so the only way you have to deal with these prehistoric contraptions (that are sometimes overflowing or wet around the base) is when the train is bouncing you from side to side in the process.

Underneath the bottom bunk beds is a compartment to put luggage in that is somewhat secure; secure in the sense that you have to lift the bottom bed up in order to put anything in, or take anything out. For best practice, it is wise to ALWAYS keep on you what you don't want to lose or have stolen. I have personally only had positive experiences on the overnight trains in Ukraine, but there are plenty of horror stories floating around. I suggest wearing a money belt to keep your valuable safe.

In winter, the trains are surprisingly HOT. Nothing else in the country has heating that works as well as on the overnight trains, and even though you might start sweating profusely and kicking the blankets off in your sleep, be sure you cherish that toasty goodness while you can.

"The respect that Ukrainian men have for women is impressive, and I personally love to see it in action."

As I said before, the overnight trains in Ukraine give an insight into the strangely caring side of the country. Where everything leading up to the time of actually getting on the train leave you feeling like the world hates you just a little bit, Ukrainians treat the overnight train rides as a social event, showing a different side.

Because it is an overnight train, everyone likes to get into some comfortable sleeping clothes. If there are both men and women in the carriage, the men will politely step outside for as long as it takes for the women to get changed and into bed.

There have also been countless times that men would offer the women the bottom bunk to make it easy for them. The respect that Ukrainian men have for women is impressive, and I personally love to see it in action.

The carriage attendant will come around to see if you need any tea or coffee, and they will come around to each person about 20 minutes before arrival at the proper stop to wake them up. Now, that's service!

If anyone has food or drink in the room, they will most likely offer to share it with everyone else, sort of creating a communal system of feasting and sharing. Others may offer to get you tea from the attendant if they are going themselves.

Numerous Ukrainians have gone out of there way to help me if I had any questions on where I should be, or which stop we are at. Many people will also attempt to make conversation even if it means communicating in broken Russian or English. They are truly happy to help, and it shows.

Overnight trains in Ukraine are not as uncomfortable as one may think from the dilapidated exterior and ancient furnishings.  They are actually a nice ride, and additionally, a little view of the Ukrainian culture.